The Amalfi Coast

Today we were off to the Amalfi Coast, a 50km stretch of coastline just south of Naples, known for vertical cliff faces dropping into gorgeous blue water, with idyllic little towns nestled into the hillsides. The bus ride wound deep into the mountains behind Naples on circuitous roads that looked too narrow to accomodate two lanes of traffic. Our driver cursed vigorously, smoked inside the bus and stopped inexplicably for twenty minutes to read his newspaper. Most of the time Caroline and I has no idea where we were but hoped the reputedly jaw dropping views of Amalfi would let us know when to disembark. Eventually we emerged from the tree line and began a steep descent down a perilous strip of asphalt fraught with blind hairpin turns. The bus driver blared the horn the whole way down in the hopes that oncoming cars would get out of the way before we flattened them but there were several instances that were too close for comfort. So we perched on the edge of our seats and distracted ourselves by marvelling at the little vineyards on terraces cleaved out of the cliffside and the colourful stucco neighbourhoods tucked in at the water's edge.

Eventually the bus came to a stop in a picturesque little piazza and we tumbled out into the dazzling afternoon sunshine of Amalfi. We wandered out onto the jetti for a better view of the town and outlying areas. Overcome with enthusiasm for the sun and the view, we scurried down to the beach to dip our toes in the Mediterranean. However, the rich aquamarine color was deceptively inviting as the water was quite chilly. Hunger soon called us back to the town center and we set off in search of lunch. At the heart of Amalfi lies a charming little piazza with a 10th century cathedral and a series of boutiques, caffes and gelato shops that spill outwards onto radiating streets. Most of the quaint little shops were selling lemon themed products- soap, candies, biscotti, and a potent little beverage with 35% alcohol content that the locals use as a palate cleanser. After a painstakingly thorough reconnaissance of all the local pizzerias we settled on a classy little joint with an amazing sausage and broccoli pizza. By the time we finished, it was time to catch a bus back to Naples. The journey back was equally perilous and twice as long. But the redeeming element was a brief drive through Sorrento, another charming coastal town, but much larger than Amalfi. The orderly streets, bustling restaurants and tasteful Christmas decorations suggest that it would make a classy alternative to staying in Naples if I ever come back to visit southern Italy.